Part 4 - Fairbanks to Anchorage
18.08.2008
August 3
Fairbanks… so on this particularly cold and overcast day we decided to hike the town. We parked across from the visitor center on the Chena River and met some local kids who loved our dogs and told us about a dog park. So off we went and “just around the corner” was almost 2 miles away. The dogs loved the park and got to play with some other dogs. On the way back we went to look at some historical sites and buildings. Then we went to Alaska Public Land Info Center. Awesome! All the info you need for doing cheap outdoorsy stuff, with advice like great views, how to react to a grizzly charge, and you could always just thumb your way back. We decided on some hikes, backcountry cabins, and paddling. With all of our new knowledge, us philosopher took off toward the University of Alaska Fairbanks. We cruised through the very modern campus to the observation overlook. On queue, the clouds cleared away just enough to see the magnificent Alaskan Range over 100 miles away. We were looking at the horizon and clouds and saw…. Holy smokes there was Mt. McKinley! It towered above the rest of the mountains and through the clouds. What a way to end the day.

August 4
We woke up to drizzle. What could we possibly do with another gloomy day (if only we’d known how many days we would wake up with the same thought.) we decided on Sam’s Club, Blockbuster, and the rest of the day was spent snacking on our new food and watching Vantage Point and Harold and Kumar Escape from Guatonamo Bay. Later in the evening we headed out to Chena River State Park where we found a nice place for Adam to do a 20 point turn, whack down some weeds with the bumper and park the trailer beside the rushing Chena. It was rainy so no fire, just bed.
(Later Side Note: I will add Jacqui’s campsite selection involved not only 4wd drive but offroading 4wd 1973 Trailer. In fact 1 week later I can still picking plants off various places of our trailer.) 
August 5
Our very 1st Anniversary!!! Never thought we’d make it! J/K it’s been a very good year and so as a celebration of our success we decided to spend our day at Chena Hot Springs (did I mention that it was raining?) When we arrived we waded through the mud puddles and bought our passes. It was in the 40’s, so we were making a mad dash for the springs. There was a huge “rock lake,” a lake with big boulders all around the edges and a fountain spraying cool water in the middle. The water felt awesome at 104+. We soaked and soaked and Adam waited and waited to get a turn at the natural jet coming out of one of the boulders, but all the old farts were hogging it – he just couldn’t get in there.
Finally after I fought two and another one had a heart attack, I seized the moment and got under the jet! Ahhhh, it felt so good. We decided to go back to the trailer to get ready for a late lunch at the resort. After some tasty Smoked Alaskan Salmon Pasta and a Smokey Bird Sandwich for Jacqui we turned in for a lazy 2 hour nap. As we awoke, we slumbered back to the springs to fight off some more old farts. (Side Note: No one was actually hurt in the writing of our journal.) Jacqui decided to make use of their showers and electricity and came out of the bathroom looking stunning. I guess it’s not a bad thing to look so good when you are just camping
We pulled onto a nice gravel bar right on the river, started a fire, and had marshmallows and ice cream.

August 6
Overcast and damp. Rain immanent. Started on our hike to the Granite Tors at 9am. We took our backpacking packs filled with rock climbing gear and camping supplies in case we didn’t make it back all in one day. It started raining at around 10 so we took shelter under the trees for a little while before giving up on a nice day and hiking on in the rain. Reached the shelter at mile 9 at about 2:45. We built a fire in the woodstove, rested our feet, and dried out some of our wet equipment. The shelters are for “emergencies,” they are free and they’re pretty darn nice with 4 walls, a door with a lock, and a wood stove – wish we had some in NC. After some rest we headed for the Tors. Within a mile we were in the Plain of Monuments, which is a huge plain at the top of the mountain with several groups of rock pillars jutting up out of the ground. We finally found a place to climb but it was too hard for me so I just belayed and Adam climbed. It was pretty chilly and we still had 5 miles to go before sundown so we were soon ready to go. On our way down the mountain we passed a lady probably in her 60’s hoofing it up the mountain with a rather large pack and her two dogs. I thought it was crazy because you’re a long way from nowhere and it would be ridiculously scary up there by yourself. Go Grandma! We finally dragged back to the trailer at around 9 pm. We were exhausted, our feet hurt, our hips and shoulders felt rubbed raw but we felt pretty proud of ourselves for making it the 18 miles in one day.

August 7
What were we thinking? We did not want to get outta bed or move at all. Everything hurt, when we finally got moving we decided we would tough it out and backpack the 8 miles into our backcountry cabin. We left around 2:45 and enjoyed a slightly easier hike to our cabin. The cabin was awesome, situated in a clearing with an outhouse, outdoor fire pit, deck, dry wood, and a rather appealing woodstove. It was in the 40’s outside and windy but within a few minutes the cabin was a toasty 90 degrees and we were opening windows. We ate, read through the cabin journal, and looked at magazines that people had left. Most people, we read, arrived at the cabin either by four wheelers or horse in summer, dogsled steams or cross country skis in the winter.

August 8
Headed for our canoe which was 10 miles away. We had dropped it off the day before about 2 miles away from the end of the trail that we were on. It rained off and on as we hiked out. When we got to the canoe we threw in our packs, hooded the dogs in so they wouldn’t flip us and jumped in for our 10 mile paddle down the rain swollen Chena River. Minutes after we got in the canoe it started pouring and continued to do so for the rest of the canoe trip. Our hands were so cold we were taking turns paddling and only paddling together when we needed to avoid a sweeper. We saw a coupled of bald eagle couples and two or three huge salmon washed up on the gravel bars. When we got to the take out poor Adam still had to run ¾ mile to get the truck. We headed right back into Fairbanks and directly into Taco Bell to reward ourselves for our efforts over the past 3 days. Then we made a stop at blockbuster for a couple more movies.


August 9
Put ourselves together for church. We made it there early! It was a small church but nice enough. We ate lunch, did some laundry, and went by the farmers market for some strawberry rhubarb pie. We lazed around and decided to head towards Denali National Park. We stopped at Healy, a few miles away from Denali, where we had a good view of the peaks of the Alaskan Range and at dusk a couple of moose stopped under the mountain range for some dinner. We did some trailer cleanup and maintenance and went to bed.
August 10
Into Denali. Found out to our disgust that it is rather expensive to enjoy the park. A “cheap” day and a half in the park would cost us $180 and we couldn’t take our dogs. The only way into the park is by the park’s buses and we were about to drop 180 when people came back from the bus ride and said it sucked because the roads were so muddy, the windows were all dirty and you couldn’t see anything. We decided on a hike near the park’s entrance and headed for the cheaper Denali State Park. This wonderful park happens to border the national park, is free offers majestic views of Mt. McKinley, and has a remote campsites opposite the beautiful Byers Lake that are absolutely free. Sounded too good to be true. It was getting very late in the day so we just pulled off on a gravel pullout beside the river.

August 11
Arrived in the state park. It was overcast but not raining so we were happy enough. The lady at the visitor center told us only 20% of visitors get to se Mt. McKinley. We put in our canoe on Byers Lake and canoed around for awhile, picked our campsite and headed back to grab our stuff and food. As we were canoeing back across the lake the clouds started to lift a little and the sun started to come out. We were pretty stoked! We spent the day chasing spawning salmon, napping in the sun on the picnic table, roasting hot dogs, and hiking to a waterfall. As the evening wore on the clouds kept drifting and clearing until we spotted a little sliver of white in the sky beyond the clouds and we decided this was McKinley. By 8 or 9 all the clouds in the sky had disappeared and we had the full view of Mt. McKinley – we felt ultimately blessed. We stayed awake till 11:15 watching the last bits of light disappear behind the huge mountain. We set our alarm for 5:30 and spent a restless night in the cold bear territory (there was fresh bear scat and paw prints a couple of sites down from us.)


August 12
At 5:30 Adam said, “We gotta get up!” I was thinking, “Oh CRAP, there’s a bear outside.” Just then Adam unzipped the tent and pointed towards the mountain, which was glowing pink and orange. The sun hits the snow covered McKinley first so while the rest of the sky was still gray the mountain seemed to be glowing. We packed up, Adam made some hot chocolate and we zoomed across the lake. As we headed towards Anchorage we had many more views of the beautiful mountain. We stopped in Talkeetna to walk around at some shops and to see the town that many mountaineers call “base” in preparation to summit Mt. McKinley – it was a pretty neat little town. We arrived in Anchorage by late afternoon and to our disgust discovered that all the parking lots (even our famous Walmart) said no overnight parking. We drove through the city and went to Turnagain Arm which was named by Captain Cook in the 1700’2 when he sailed through the Cook Inlet and then when arriving in the Turnagain Arm decided to “Turn Again,” to continue his search for the Northwest Passage. We looked for beluga whales at Beluga Point but saw none. We did however see the mud flats. This area has such an extreme tide (bore tides) that it rushed in at 15 mph and in a wave of up to 6ft tall. After the tide goes out it leaves the mud flats which some people think is a beautiful beach on which to walk. Shortly thereafter the coast guard is rescuing the suckers from quicksand-like mud and the 6ft tidal wave. Unfortunately there were no suckers roaming the coast for our enjoyment today. We headed back into town to spend the rainy evening watching “Step Brothers!” Hilarious! After watching the movie we were successful in finding a patch of parking lot without any no overnight parking signs.

August 13
Decided to skip breakfast and go for a bike ride to work up an appetite for our famous Salmon Bake plans. We took the dogs with us on an 18 mile ride along the lovely coastal trail on the edge of town. We also checked out Lake Hood, the largest float plane base in the world. The dogs were trucking along beside us at a good 15 mph most of the way. It was 5:00 when we got done with our ride and we were pretty hungry. We found Phyllis Café and Salmon Bake quickly and settled of Silver Salmon for Adam and Grilled Chicken with Teriyaki for me. It was delicious and we enjoyed it to the fullest on the porch as we watched other tourists cracking and sucking out the insides of King Crab! We did some souvenirs for the family shopping and drove out to Airport Park where there was a nice view of Anchorage and Cook Inlet to snap a few pictures. We ran into a nice man who talked to us for quite a while about Jesus and his theories, he was pretty cool. Then we took some night pictures and took off for the Eagle River. 

Posted by basecamprs 19:46 Comments (1)























Very rainy, gloomy day unfortunately. A nice guy commented on our trailer and we ended up talking to him for a while about the city! He gave us some pointers on where to go. He told us about a dog park on Docteur Penfield Lane so we took the dogs there to play for a bit. We ate lunch outside the dog park in our trailer.
Picked up a few things and went to bed.

By this time we were both more than a little irritated with our misbehaving dogs who couldn’t decide if they wanted to swim or ride. I hadn’t had any coffee; Adam hadn’t had any breakfast, so we both felt like tying rocks to our feet and going for a little swim. But instead we decided to eat a granola bar, have some Jet Boil cappuccino and take the dogs for a walk. Eating, drinking – good idea. Walk – bad idea. Even with a thick layer of bug spray all over us the mosquitoes were still swarming trying to fly into eyes, ears, and nose holes. We turned around after about 30 minutes and decided to do a little bit more canoeing. We figured it would be in our best interest if the dogs were pooped on the canoe ride back to the campground, so we took off with dogs swimming behind us. We stayed close to the shore for a while then began going from island to island. At every island they would get out of the water, rest, run around on shore, and then jump back in the water to chase after the canoe. Finally they were tired and they jumped in the canoe for a ride back to the campground. 
Ate PB&J’s and BBQ chips and decided we would take two walks: one with Jasper and one with Emo. We took a trail that went over lava rocks and out to the bay of Lake Superior. Lake Superior is the largest lake in the world and is an icy 39 F. There was a guy wading in it at the beach area; we weren’t so brave but we were eager to have Jasper go for a swim. We played fetch with her for a while and she would jump in and swim out to get the stick; however I think it was even a bit cold for her because she only went in 7 or 8 times.
The water was crystal clear and it was a perfect day but we were a little bit worried that Emo might be yapping her head off back at the trailer so we kept moving.
We found a spigot and filled up our water holding tank as we read the “Water Boil Advisory” put into effect on July 14. The water was a little brownish – yum! After we got set up we went back to Wassagaming to see if we could get some more money for a second night at the campsite and pick up a few things. On the way into town we saw a mother black bear and three tiny cubs, two black ones and one little brown one.
They were all just chilling and enjoying the attention on the side of the road. The little brown one looked like the runt and was definitely the cutest. They were playing with each other while momma was eating. When we got back to the campsite, we still had not enough cash for our second night here because all of the ATM’s were kicking our cards out. I guess because they are American, but thankfully we had enough to get one night. We were pooped so we ate, took showers, and went to bed.
, and finally pulled ourselves together. We drove out to the back (so we would not get impounded in a few hours), went on a bike ride on an overgrown, wet, mosquito infested (are you seeing a pattern?) trail, hiked up an observation tower, and headed back to the camp. We got our dogs to go for a canoe ride on Moon Lake
(water was pretty scary, little things floating around in it, did not want to even put a finger in it) and took the dogs on a 1.5km walk. Then we just lazed around all afternoon in the hammock and by the fire. At around 9 when it was beginning to get dark we went for a drive and saw a bull moose beside the road.
We did a little gravel spinning, roasted marshmallows and went to bed planning to get up early for adventures.
I hope it doesn’t mess up our truck.
We took the dogs to a big lake near town and they had fun chasing each other and the seagulls.


Approximately 2 miles up and 2-2 ½ miles down and to Rattlesnake. It was freezing cold; the dogs were too scared to go into the deep areas but they had fun running around shaking off by all the boy scouts.
After leaving Rattlesnake Pool we walked out to a swampy area to look for moose, we saw lots of hoof prints (big ones!) but no moose
A deep green swimming hole deep in the NH woods with a beautiful waterfall running into it. We all swam there. Jasper and Emo loved it! Josh “tossed” Abbi in to Laura and once she was in she seemed to enjoy it. It was so cold though, so had to force yourself to stay in – it made the head hurt!
Good pictures but getting warm outside.
We loaded up 2 canoes and a picnic lunch and headed out. 4.5 hours later we pulled the canoes out of the river. We had a good time floating (not paddling!) down the river. We found a rope swing and 4 pairs of glasses – sunglasses that is (a nice pair of Oakley’s and Vogue). As soon as we get the canoes back on the truck it started to down pour. When we got back to the Birches we started preparing for Thursday’s hike and went to bed early.
Started up the mtn towards Tuckerman’s Ravine and the summit of Mt. Washington.
Ate lunch and had some hot chocolate.
, Buglight, and one other one.
Nice waterfall of about 200 feet. 
